Wednesday, January 15, 2014

St Croix-NOT!

On Monday, December 16th, we set out for St. Croix. The forecast was for 20-25, with gusts to 30 on a close reach. We've sailed across OCEANS! 50 miles in a strong breeze? No problem. We got about 5 miles offshore and decided pounding into heavy seas, in rain squalls, didn't seem like much fun. Especially since we only had 3 days to go to St Croix and get back to the BVI. So we tacked around Buck Island and headed for St John. Much closer, and more sheltered.

I have to admit. I felt like I had wimped out. Had all the sunny days in paradise made me soft? A question for another day, perhaps.

What a Drag!

Jarad and Crystal on Catherine invited us to come over to Water Island. We've been trying to get together with them and their kids for over a month and haven't been able to make it work. Water Island is just out the back side of the harbor from Charlotte Amalie, so we headed over. When we arrived, there was only one, spot left near the mooring field to anchor. Everything else was in >40 ft of water and out past the point in the swell.

After we set the hook and made plans to meet the crew of Catherine on the beach, a nice fellow from the boat behind us stopped by to inform me that I would drag anchor tonight if I stayed where I was. I may have seemed a little skeptical, so he challenged me to dive on the anchor and check for myself. Donning the scuba tank, I quickly confirmed that the anchor was not really "set", it was sitting in a pile of rocks, waiting to move when I wasn't watching. This would not work. We went around the corner to the next harbor, but the holding there wasn't any better, confirmed by yet another dive.

So we ended up leaving Water Island and missing dinner with our friends again. We got back to CA at dusk and dropped anchor where we had set for 3 days earlier. Since we were off to St Croix in the morning, we turned in early.

SURPRISE! When I came on deck in the morning, I was only 100 yards off the lee shore on Hassel Island. We had dragged 1,000 yards in the night. After upping anchor, we motored by the boat we had been anchored next to the night before. They told us they had honked their horn and shined a spotlight in our windows, but couldn't wake us.

I guess any story where you dragged anchor and didn't end up on the beach or tangled with the neighbors is a good one, so I will just be thankful it turned out OK.

Go Navy! Beat Army!

It is that time of year again. The leaves are off the trees. The leftovers from Thanksgiving Dinner are finally all gone. The Christmas tree is sparkling in the living room. And Navy meets Army for the last regular (non-bowl/ non-playoff) college football game of the year. Of course, some things change. This year the palm trees have all their leaves, we had potluck turkey dinner at the beach in Virgin Gorda, and the closest thing we have to Christmas decorations are a string of parrot shaped lights. Some things stay the same. Navy beat Army for the 12th straight time. After searching all over Charlotte Amalie, St Thomas for a good local sports bar, we ended up at, would you believe it, a Hooters! They turned the sound up for our viewing pleasure, and the wings were good, as usual. Navy played great, and we had a good time texting our friends Dave and Milissa who were freezing in Philly at the game.

While in Charlotte Amalie, Ginny, Cary and I went for a great run along the waterfront. The dinghy dock is down behind the Yacht Haven Grande megayacht marina. Wow! There is definitely an income gap in the world, based on the plethora of HUGE, SHINY YACHTS! Rising Sun, at over 400 feet, had to be the biggest. The whole scene was reminiscent of an episode of Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous with Robin Leach saying,  "Here we have Rising Sun, the most spectacular of yachts co-owned by Larry Ellison. Let's go in and take a look, shall we?". Well, unfortunately, we weren't invited on board, but there was much discussion about the carbon footprint of a megayacht, and the supposition of what one could do with all that money. Instead, the run took us through the swanky marina, and along the waterfront past the market, fort and down to the ferry dock. It was great to get out and stretch our legs.

The anchorage was a little rolly, and loud on Friday and Saturday nights. The music from the bars on the strip played 'til after midnight each night, but the Christmas Boat Parade was entertaining, with fellow Rally member, MoltoBene, sporting a fantastic full mast/boom/forestay red and green Christmas tree. In our opinion, the most tasteful of the displays.




Wednesday, December 11, 2013

Dolphins on the Trip South

The video says it all.

Pierside Red Hook Bay, St Thomas

I has been over a month since Music has spent the night alongside a pier. Needing to reprovision, and to connect to shore power to equalize the battery bank, we decided to pull in to American Yacht Harbor in Red Hook Bay. First order of business, HOT SHOWERS. Then off to grab a "Safari Bus" for a special treat. These buses are 2 ton Ford/ GMC trucks with open bench seats in the back, carrying about 20-24 passengers. We road with a bunch of school kids headed home after choir practice. They all wear school uniforms. This particular school is a pink shirt and burgundy skirt/ trousers. They were all very friendly.

The special treat was a trip to the movies to watch Hunger Games 2: Catching Fire. The movie was very good, and we even were there on a Tuesday, which is Client Appreciation Night so tickets were much cheaper.

The next morning Tricia did laundry while Cary and Ginny went to school (from the salon table). Then the ladies headed off to take a bus into town to shop a Kmart and the grocery store. I changed the oil and fuel filter on the engine, and equalized the batteries.

Marina is nice, if a little exposed. We went bow into the slip, which puts the stern to the wind and waves. Next time, we will either back in or take a slip on the other side of the pier. Live and learn.

Stepping Out to the USVI

We decided to head over to the US Virgin Islands for a couple of weeks. With my parents coming down to visit us in the British VI for Christmas, we have to leave BVI for 2 weeks to avoid going over our allowed 30 days in 2013 and having to pay an import duty on the boat. So on Friday, December 6th, we sailed from Soper's Hole to St. John. It is considerably shorter than a trip from Kent Island to Annapolis. We had to check in with Homeland Security, and decided to do so at Cruz Bay in St John. The only empty spot to anchor in this tiny crowded harbor had only 6.5 feet of water. I know this because I was aground again. No worries, just sand, and we backed right off. After being chased out of the mooring field 3 times by "good samaritans" in dinghies, we motored around the point to Caneel Bay and picked up a National Park mooring. We then dinghies backed to Cruz Bay. In the US, all crew members need to report to clear customs, unlike in the BVI where the Captain can clear in his crew. So we all had a nice wet ride out and back. Other than that, it went surprisingly well. We also visiting the National Park Service and met a nice ranger who had lived in Takoma Park.

After getting the paperwork done, we took a mooring in Francis Bay, St. John. Most of St John is a National Park, set aside by Lawrence Rockefeller. Anchoring is very closely controlled to protect the reefs. To support boaters, the NPS has established plenty of well maintained moorings for $15/ night. The bay is well protected from the Eastern Trades, and has a nice beach, clear blue water and several reefs to snorkel, Even more, we were able to glom some free WiFi! Cary and Ginny could school in paradise.

We met a nice British couple, Peter and Christine on OoJah, a J 122 they had sailed from the UK. They  were the first cruisers we have entertained on Music, enjoying sundowners with us. Peter had to leave the Goslings out of his Dark'n'Stormy because of the meds he was taking for severely bruised ribs after falling against a winch in an accidental jibe when a squall caught OoJah flatfooted on the trip from Saba. Peter and Christine are members of the Ocean Cruising Club and offered to sponsor our application for membership now that we have satisfied the one criteria of having completed an open ocean voyage of greater than 1,000 miles.

We snorkeled several days. Many reef fish even though the reefs are declining. I think they are choked with silt. We did spot a Lionfish and report it so this invader can be eradicated. We also got to swim with a hawksbill turtle. Check out the video.


Monday, December 9, 2013

Soper's Hole

From Trellis Bay, we went to Nanny Cay marina to pick up our sails from Quantum. I was pleasantly surprised that the repairs to the genoa were under $250. They replaced two panels in the clew, and stitched up the torn sun cover. The repairs to the main were even cheaper. While we were there, we got fuel and water. We also stopped at Blue Water Divers and got new o-rings for the air tank. Unfortunately, no one in the BVI services our brand of BC. We will have to research elsewhere. I picked up a zinc for the prop at Budget Marine.

Tricia visited Linda and Bill on Sapphire and checked out Brie, their Jack Russell, and the original Salty Dawg, who was not doing well. Evidently Brie is on the mend, and Linda was very thankful for Tricia's help. They even offered us their mooring in Soper's Hole. We were happy to take advantage of the opportunity. Soon, we were moored in Soper's Hole. But we weren't sure we were on the right mooring. It was awfully close to a private dock. Then we noticed Bill and Linda's friends on Tovarisch at the mooring next to us. That must be the mooring. I decided "'Tis better to ask for forgiveness than permission", i.e. I wasn't leaving until someone kicked me off.

Early the next morning, a man came down on the dock and said "Hey, you're on my mooring!" Oops. He then introduced himself as Rees. He was a friend of Bill and Linda's. Both moorings were his and we were welcome to stay until Friday afternoon. We were planning to leave Friday morning, so everything was copacetic. Yeah, free a free mooring!

Cary and Ginny set up school at the local coffee shop and cyber cafe.  We were unable to boost wifi here - everything is locked! Tricia was able to get a few more things at the Harbor Market, a Riteway right at the dock. I replaced the zinc on the propeller with the scuba tank and good BC. We also fixed the port lower spreader that was cocked upward. Ginny tried first, going aloft and jumping up and down on it. It wouldn't budge. I had to go up and remove the seizing wire under the spreader boot to get it to move. I don't know why it would slide up but not down.