Wednesday, December 11, 2013
Pierside Red Hook Bay, St Thomas
I has been over a month since Music has spent the night alongside a pier. Needing to reprovision, and to connect to shore power to equalize the battery bank, we decided to pull in to American Yacht Harbor in Red Hook Bay. First order of business, HOT SHOWERS. Then off to grab a "Safari Bus" for a special treat. These buses are 2 ton Ford/ GMC trucks with open bench seats in the back, carrying about 20-24 passengers. We road with a bunch of school kids headed home after choir practice. They all wear school uniforms. This particular school is a pink shirt and burgundy skirt/ trousers. They were all very friendly.
The special treat was a trip to the movies to watch Hunger Games 2: Catching Fire. The movie was very good, and we even were there on a Tuesday, which is Client Appreciation Night so tickets were much cheaper.
The next morning Tricia did laundry while Cary and Ginny went to school (from the salon table). Then the ladies headed off to take a bus into town to shop a Kmart and the grocery store. I changed the oil and fuel filter on the engine, and equalized the batteries.
Marina is nice, if a little exposed. We went bow into the slip, which puts the stern to the wind and waves. Next time, we will either back in or take a slip on the other side of the pier. Live and learn.
The special treat was a trip to the movies to watch Hunger Games 2: Catching Fire. The movie was very good, and we even were there on a Tuesday, which is Client Appreciation Night so tickets were much cheaper.
The next morning Tricia did laundry while Cary and Ginny went to school (from the salon table). Then the ladies headed off to take a bus into town to shop a Kmart and the grocery store. I changed the oil and fuel filter on the engine, and equalized the batteries.
Marina is nice, if a little exposed. We went bow into the slip, which puts the stern to the wind and waves. Next time, we will either back in or take a slip on the other side of the pier. Live and learn.
Stepping Out to the USVI
We decided to head over to the US Virgin Islands for a couple of weeks. With my parents coming down to visit us in the British VI for Christmas, we have to leave BVI for 2 weeks to avoid going over our allowed 30 days in 2013 and having to pay an import duty on the boat. So on Friday, December 6th, we sailed from Soper's Hole to St. John. It is considerably shorter than a trip from Kent Island to Annapolis. We had to check in with Homeland Security, and decided to do so at Cruz Bay in St John. The only empty spot to anchor in this tiny crowded harbor had only 6.5 feet of water. I know this because I was aground again. No worries, just sand, and we backed right off. After being chased out of the mooring field 3 times by "good samaritans" in dinghies, we motored around the point to Caneel Bay and picked up a National Park mooring. We then dinghies backed to Cruz Bay. In the US, all crew members need to report to clear customs, unlike in the BVI where the Captain can clear in his crew. So we all had a nice wet ride out and back. Other than that, it went surprisingly well. We also visiting the National Park Service and met a nice ranger who had lived in Takoma Park.
After getting the paperwork done, we took a mooring in Francis Bay, St. John. Most of St John is a National Park, set aside by Lawrence Rockefeller. Anchoring is very closely controlled to protect the reefs. To support boaters, the NPS has established plenty of well maintained moorings for $15/ night. The bay is well protected from the Eastern Trades, and has a nice beach, clear blue water and several reefs to snorkel, Even more, we were able to glom some free WiFi! Cary and Ginny could school in paradise.
We met a nice British couple, Peter and Christine on OoJah, a J 122 they had sailed from the UK. They were the first cruisers we have entertained on Music, enjoying sundowners with us. Peter had to leave the Goslings out of his Dark'n'Stormy because of the meds he was taking for severely bruised ribs after falling against a winch in an accidental jibe when a squall caught OoJah flatfooted on the trip from Saba. Peter and Christine are members of the Ocean Cruising Club and offered to sponsor our application for membership now that we have satisfied the one criteria of having completed an open ocean voyage of greater than 1,000 miles.
We snorkeled several days. Many reef fish even though the reefs are declining. I think they are choked with silt. We did spot a Lionfish and report it so this invader can be eradicated. We also got to swim with a hawksbill turtle. Check out the video.
After getting the paperwork done, we took a mooring in Francis Bay, St. John. Most of St John is a National Park, set aside by Lawrence Rockefeller. Anchoring is very closely controlled to protect the reefs. To support boaters, the NPS has established plenty of well maintained moorings for $15/ night. The bay is well protected from the Eastern Trades, and has a nice beach, clear blue water and several reefs to snorkel, Even more, we were able to glom some free WiFi! Cary and Ginny could school in paradise.
We met a nice British couple, Peter and Christine on OoJah, a J 122 they had sailed from the UK. They were the first cruisers we have entertained on Music, enjoying sundowners with us. Peter had to leave the Goslings out of his Dark'n'Stormy because of the meds he was taking for severely bruised ribs after falling against a winch in an accidental jibe when a squall caught OoJah flatfooted on the trip from Saba. Peter and Christine are members of the Ocean Cruising Club and offered to sponsor our application for membership now that we have satisfied the one criteria of having completed an open ocean voyage of greater than 1,000 miles.
We snorkeled several days. Many reef fish even though the reefs are declining. I think they are choked with silt. We did spot a Lionfish and report it so this invader can be eradicated. We also got to swim with a hawksbill turtle. Check out the video.
Monday, December 9, 2013
Soper's Hole
From Trellis Bay, we went to Nanny Cay marina to pick up our sails from Quantum. I was pleasantly surprised that the repairs to the genoa were under $250. They replaced two panels in the clew, and stitched up the torn sun cover. The repairs to the main were even cheaper. While we were there, we got fuel and water. We also stopped at Blue Water Divers and got new o-rings for the air tank. Unfortunately, no one in the BVI services our brand of BC. We will have to research elsewhere. I picked up a zinc for the prop at Budget Marine.
Tricia visited Linda and Bill on Sapphire and checked out Brie, their Jack Russell, and the original Salty Dawg, who was not doing well. Evidently Brie is on the mend, and Linda was very thankful for Tricia's help. They even offered us their mooring in Soper's Hole. We were happy to take advantage of the opportunity. Soon, we were moored in Soper's Hole. But we weren't sure we were on the right mooring. It was awfully close to a private dock. Then we noticed Bill and Linda's friends on Tovarisch at the mooring next to us. That must be the mooring. I decided "'Tis better to ask for forgiveness than permission", i.e. I wasn't leaving until someone kicked me off.
Early the next morning, a man came down on the dock and said "Hey, you're on my mooring!" Oops. He then introduced himself as Rees. He was a friend of Bill and Linda's. Both moorings were his and we were welcome to stay until Friday afternoon. We were planning to leave Friday morning, so everything was copacetic. Yeah, free a free mooring!
Cary and Ginny set up school at the local coffee shop and cyber cafe. We were unable to boost wifi here - everything is locked! Tricia was able to get a few more things at the Harbor Market, a Riteway right at the dock. I replaced the zinc on the propeller with the scuba tank and good BC. We also fixed the port lower spreader that was cocked upward. Ginny tried first, going aloft and jumping up and down on it. It wouldn't budge. I had to go up and remove the seizing wire under the spreader boot to get it to move. I don't know why it would slide up but not down.
Tricia visited Linda and Bill on Sapphire and checked out Brie, their Jack Russell, and the original Salty Dawg, who was not doing well. Evidently Brie is on the mend, and Linda was very thankful for Tricia's help. They even offered us their mooring in Soper's Hole. We were happy to take advantage of the opportunity. Soon, we were moored in Soper's Hole. But we weren't sure we were on the right mooring. It was awfully close to a private dock. Then we noticed Bill and Linda's friends on Tovarisch at the mooring next to us. That must be the mooring. I decided "'Tis better to ask for forgiveness than permission", i.e. I wasn't leaving until someone kicked me off.
Early the next morning, a man came down on the dock and said "Hey, you're on my mooring!" Oops. He then introduced himself as Rees. He was a friend of Bill and Linda's. Both moorings were his and we were welcome to stay until Friday afternoon. We were planning to leave Friday morning, so everything was copacetic. Yeah, free a free mooring!
Cary and Ginny set up school at the local coffee shop and cyber cafe. We were unable to boost wifi here - everything is locked! Tricia was able to get a few more things at the Harbor Market, a Riteway right at the dock. I replaced the zinc on the propeller with the scuba tank and good BC. We also fixed the port lower spreader that was cocked upward. Ginny tried first, going aloft and jumping up and down on it. It wouldn't budge. I had to go up and remove the seizing wire under the spreader boot to get it to move. I don't know why it would slide up but not down.
Aragorn's at Trellis Bay
Trellis Bay is right across from Marina Cay. It has a small market (read - not very useful), and a little artist studio/ organic vegetable shop called Aragorn's. Aragorn must be quite a character. He hosts a party every Full Moon where they have a bonfire featuring some of his metal sculptures as fireplaces.
Tricia picked up some fresh basil at Aragorn's for a delicious pesto later that night. I went in the restaurant next door and read all the revolutionary slogans and quotes on the wall. The bartender was obviously a bit of a radical. I was amused.
We met up with friends from Rita T in the harbor, and made plans to catch up with them in a few days.
Tricia picked up some fresh basil at Aragorn's for a delicious pesto later that night. I went in the restaurant next door and read all the revolutionary slogans and quotes on the wall. The bartender was obviously a bit of a radical. I was amused.
We met up with friends from Rita T in the harbor, and made plans to catch up with them in a few days.
Quick Trip for Repairs and Stores
After a few days to recuperate, we have to address the major repair items: sails and chart plotter. We left Marina Cay and sailed to Nanny Cay on Tortola. We popped the chute, using the spinnaker pole to sail dead downwind. A first for our crew on Music. It worked fine, got us moving well and dried us out. Without a plotter, we took the long way around "the Dogs" before figuring out which side of Tortola we were seeing and adjusting course.
Once we arrived at Nanny Cay Marina, we stripped the main and genoa off the boat and carried them to the Quantum Sails loft. Cary, Ginny and I had the main on our shoulders, about 150 lbs, and, wouldn't you know it, our slip was as far from the loft as possible. It felt like a mile. We left the sails with Kevin and told him to do what he needed to do.
We then motored Music to Road Town, Tortola. Tricia went in to the National Parks office to get a permit to use the park moorings, while I removed the chart plotter. Getting from the dinghy onto the ferry dock was a challenge, and Tricia ended up having to request her permit soaking wet. (Cary later saw a shark right where Tricia had been "swimming".) I went in search of Fedex to ship the plotter back to Raymarine. After a long walk to a Tortola Express office in Village Cay, I decided not to use their UPS service. $147 to ship to US, and all their boxes looked beat to heck.
We then moved to an anchorage outside the seawall near the Moorings charter base. It was very rolly, and it took several tries to get the anchor set. It was dark when we finally tucked in to dinner, cards and bed. We woke to find a large cruise ship at the pier next to us. Quite the morning surprise, especially after contemplating the night before how close we could anchor to that dock! We took the dinghy in to the Moorings complex where they were nice enough to let us tie up and come ashore, albeit tied to a sunken concrete walkway covered in green slimy growth. We noticed several boats anchored in the little cove near the Moorings, even though the cruising guide says there is no anchoring here. I think it is fairly shallow. We did see the boat we almost bought instead of Music anchored right where we had seen it 3 years ago. It looks like it hasn't been cared for since.
Tricia and Cary went to the Riteway market for groceries and the french bakery mostly for window shopping, and I set out to find Fedex. The taxi took me to an office I never would have found on foot, only to find them closed on Saturday. Tricia had mentioned a USPS office. USPS in the BVI? Might as well try, so I set out on foot again. I was able to find it. Island Express, near the Supreme Court Building. They carry the mail to St Thomas and then send it from a US Post Office. Yes, USPS. It was only $47, including insurance, so I saved $100!
Provisioning at Riteway was a dream… a big grocery store, with a no-membership bulk store right next door , (which we skipped on this occasion). Buying the groceries was easy, with the exception that only about 1/3 of the prices were marked, and food here costs about double what it would in the States. We did well though, and got just enough to weigh us down for the walk back to the dinghy, and just the right amount to fill the fridge.
Back on board, we were happy to up anchor and head back to Virgin Gorda. On the way, we went to The Baths and snorkeled. The rock formations are cool and there were a few assorted tropical fish. Tricia saw a few squid. Overall, it was nice, but not that impressive. Rough, and it was a low wind day.
Once we arrived at Nanny Cay Marina, we stripped the main and genoa off the boat and carried them to the Quantum Sails loft. Cary, Ginny and I had the main on our shoulders, about 150 lbs, and, wouldn't you know it, our slip was as far from the loft as possible. It felt like a mile. We left the sails with Kevin and told him to do what he needed to do.
We then motored Music to Road Town, Tortola. Tricia went in to the National Parks office to get a permit to use the park moorings, while I removed the chart plotter. Getting from the dinghy onto the ferry dock was a challenge, and Tricia ended up having to request her permit soaking wet. (Cary later saw a shark right where Tricia had been "swimming".) I went in search of Fedex to ship the plotter back to Raymarine. After a long walk to a Tortola Express office in Village Cay, I decided not to use their UPS service. $147 to ship to US, and all their boxes looked beat to heck.
We then moved to an anchorage outside the seawall near the Moorings charter base. It was very rolly, and it took several tries to get the anchor set. It was dark when we finally tucked in to dinner, cards and bed. We woke to find a large cruise ship at the pier next to us. Quite the morning surprise, especially after contemplating the night before how close we could anchor to that dock! We took the dinghy in to the Moorings complex where they were nice enough to let us tie up and come ashore, albeit tied to a sunken concrete walkway covered in green slimy growth. We noticed several boats anchored in the little cove near the Moorings, even though the cruising guide says there is no anchoring here. I think it is fairly shallow. We did see the boat we almost bought instead of Music anchored right where we had seen it 3 years ago. It looks like it hasn't been cared for since.
Tricia and Cary went to the Riteway market for groceries and the french bakery mostly for window shopping, and I set out to find Fedex. The taxi took me to an office I never would have found on foot, only to find them closed on Saturday. Tricia had mentioned a USPS office. USPS in the BVI? Might as well try, so I set out on foot again. I was able to find it. Island Express, near the Supreme Court Building. They carry the mail to St Thomas and then send it from a US Post Office. Yes, USPS. It was only $47, including insurance, so I saved $100!
Provisioning at Riteway was a dream… a big grocery store, with a no-membership bulk store right next door , (which we skipped on this occasion). Buying the groceries was easy, with the exception that only about 1/3 of the prices were marked, and food here costs about double what it would in the States. We did well though, and got just enough to weigh us down for the walk back to the dinghy, and just the right amount to fill the fridge.
Back on board, we were happy to up anchor and head back to Virgin Gorda. On the way, we went to The Baths and snorkeled. The rock formations are cool and there were a few assorted tropical fish. Tricia saw a few squid. Overall, it was nice, but not that impressive. Rough, and it was a low wind day.
Diving the Dogs and more
We finally had to say goodbye to Bitter End for a while. But there is more of the BVI to see. And our sails are ready.
We motored to a group of islands off Virgin Gorda called the Dogs. We picked up a park mooring off George Dog, and broke out the scuba gear. We have 2 tanks and regulators, and 3 BC's. Cary and Tricia were going to dive. When Cary hopped in, she started to sink and bubbles were coming out of her BC where they shouldn't be. It seems a fitting is broken or missing an o-ring. Disappointing since we had them professionally inspected. There was also a bad o-ring on the second tank. We ended up snorkeling instead of diving. The coral was a lot healthier, and we saw more and a wider variety of fish.
(We later found out that you can take the yellow "dive site" mooring if a commercial dive boat isn't there. If they arrive when you are on it, you have to leave. Unless you have divers in the water, in which case they wait. This would have been better than the white "lunch" mooring we took, which was rolly and a swim from the good stuff to see.)
From the Dogs we motored to Marina Cay and anchored for the night. The protected area is mostly moorings, and we had to squeeze into the back. But we had a nice night at anchor for free. I believe this is the night Ginny and I scored 3,800 points in 1 hand of Canasta to crush Cary and Tricia in just two hands. (But Cary and I beat Mat and Ginny the next night, so we're even!). For reference, we are finding not many places are shallow enough to anchor, and some places it is forbidden to anchor because of the reefs. We take free when we can get it!
We motored to a group of islands off Virgin Gorda called the Dogs. We picked up a park mooring off George Dog, and broke out the scuba gear. We have 2 tanks and regulators, and 3 BC's. Cary and Tricia were going to dive. When Cary hopped in, she started to sink and bubbles were coming out of her BC where they shouldn't be. It seems a fitting is broken or missing an o-ring. Disappointing since we had them professionally inspected. There was also a bad o-ring on the second tank. We ended up snorkeling instead of diving. The coral was a lot healthier, and we saw more and a wider variety of fish.
(We later found out that you can take the yellow "dive site" mooring if a commercial dive boat isn't there. If they arrive when you are on it, you have to leave. Unless you have divers in the water, in which case they wait. This would have been better than the white "lunch" mooring we took, which was rolly and a swim from the good stuff to see.)
From the Dogs we motored to Marina Cay and anchored for the night. The protected area is mostly moorings, and we had to squeeze into the back. But we had a nice night at anchor for free. I believe this is the night Ginny and I scored 3,800 points in 1 hand of Canasta to crush Cary and Tricia in just two hands. (But Cary and I beat Mat and Ginny the next night, so we're even!). For reference, we are finding not many places are shallow enough to anchor, and some places it is forbidden to anchor because of the reefs. We take free when we can get it!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)